Thursday, March 26, 2009

Enoshima, Kanagawa

On Enoshima, an island sitting only about an hour south of central Tokyo, there is a set of caves containing various carvings of Buddhist statues. Access to the caves is obtained by either walking over the island or by taking a boat from the causeway. The boat costs 400 yen per person. Walking is free, unless you opt for the escalators to the top, which run 750 yen for use of all three, and to reach the caves you still need to walk down the other side.

 

The approach and entrance to the caves have obviously seen some fairly recent renovation, with a wide concrete bridge arcing around the cliff faces and keeping visitors safely above the rocky flats (and more interesting things). Along the cliff wall the old access path is still visible (though crumbling) and looked a lot more fun. Once inside, vertical fish tanks (sans fish, but the first sporting a little blue plastic dolphin) line a tunnel to the main cave. There are also some historic photos of some early tourists to the site adorning the walls.

 

The 500 yen entrance fee includes the use of a thin candle lamp, the necessity of which the idle monkey trainer failed to see. The main cave itself is relatively well lighted. Plexiglas separates the statues and the lighting from the visitors. The ceilings are low, and covered with one of three things: wire caging to keep rocks from falling on people, Plexiglas to keep water from falling on people, or foam padding to keep people off the roof. All are secured with large, exposed bolts, so caution is necessary. A good deal of the time you are in the caves will be spent in a hunched position if you are over four-feet tall, more if you’re over six-feet tall. The cave system is not very extensive, however, so it is not a long time.

 

The second cave is even more disappointing. In its farthest reaches is a plastic-looking dragon (safely in a fenced area), surrounded by black lights and phosphorous rocks. Despite the natural occurrence of phosphorous rocks in the area, the bright colors of these rocks appear false.

 

The tidal pools that can be accessed along the rocky and wind-swept coast near the cave entrance turned out to be largely devoid of life apart from some plants. I did spot one, very small, dead crab. (There was more live sea life seen at the sushi shop during dinner than witnessed while on the island.) Still, the few merchants along the route sell (or perhaps rent) small nets for kids to use in trying to capture anything they might find. There were a few intrepid youngsters giving it a try, but not seeming to have much luck.

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