Global Tito Update

After several months, Global Tito has finally been updated with some pictures from the Trail of the 47 Ronin.

And if that seems like a morbid route to follow, keep in mind this is Japan and you can always make it cute. For example, you can always collect all 47 Hello Kitty Ronin (conveniently available just outside the Sengaku Temple entrance.)

The Last Festival of the Season

Over the weekend the Idle Monkey Trainer ventured to Konandai, Yokohama to take part in what will be the last festival of the season (for him, anyway). The small shrine in the neighborhood hosted a local festival with only one event: a mikoshi.There was also only one food stall at the shrine, selling hot dogs.

This particular festival had a limited number of participants, and a fortunately smaller mikoshi than during previous experiences. This was fortunate in that the Idle Monkey Trainer stands several inches (centimeters) taller than most people in this country. The result was a Sweaty Monkey Trainer, with a sore shoulder. Nonetheless, it was an enjoyable evening.It was just a good thing the festival did not last too long.

An Idle Thought

If PETA had been around in the early days of mining, would we still have the expression "a canary in a coal mine"?

The American Pastime, in a Japanese Style

The Idle Monkey Trainer, after several years of living in Japan, finally made it out to "the old ball game". Like anything borrowed from another culture, adjustments to local norms is likely. In the IT industry, this is referred to as "localization". And baseball is no exception. The Japanese have localized it.

I had read and heard about the differences from others. But, for a while I have wanted to experience it first hand. So, last weekend I made my way to Yokohama Stadium to see the Yokohama Baystars take on the Tokyo Giants. (I see no point in going to a dome for a baseball game; the point of baseball to me has always been to sit in the sun and drink beer.)

The differences were apparent before the game even started. The first difference was presented to us when we reserved the tickets. A friend of the Idle Monkey Trainer made the reservations for tickets through a friend's husband who works for the organization. He apologized for the current bottom-of-the-league ranking of the Baystars. We were also asked which team we supported so that are seats would be in the right place. Fans are divided to keep tempers in check and the fists from flying. About half the stadium was full of Giants fans. Arriving just after 2:00 for a 2:30 first pitch, our party was greeted by the classic strains of "Take me out to the ball game". The song is not repeated in the 7th inning stretch. There were also more cheerleaders and costumed characters -- the black pig at the left is the mascot of the Tokyo Broadcasting System, owner of the Yokohama Baystars -- running around the field than I have ever seen at a U.S. game. The fans keep up an almost constant cheering and singing, in turn with their teams' respective at-bats. There are also specific songs/cheers that rise up after each run is scored. The Baystar's song ends in three cheers of "Bonzai"!



The game itself does not show much difference, in terms of rules or play anyway. The only obvious difference being that when a pitcher hits a batter, the pitcher will tip his hat in apology. I am more accustomed to the U.S. style of staring the guy down. Interestingly enough, on this afternoon, both pitchers were from the U.S.. Williams, starting for the Giants and lasting 2 2/3 innings, only tipped his hat to the first of the two batters he hit.

In the end, the Baystars won 4 - 1 over the Giants (who are, by the way, the NY Yankees of Japan - with every negative -- and perhaps positive -- connotation that conveys).

Taiko Sushi

The idle monkey trainer was fortunate enough to be introduced to Taiko, a sushi shop of some renown in the Asakusabashi area of Tokyo. The fish was very good - fresh and tasty - and very reasonably priced, as are the drinks.

1500 yen, built for two

Taiko is also famous for its nightly round of じゃんけん (janken) or game of rock-paper-scissors. Each night at about 8 o'clock, give or take the whims of the owner, a game of rock-paper-scissors is played to give away several prizes. On the night I was there the prizes included a package of ramen soup mix (a house specialty, and extremely good - and cheap), a store t-shirt, a basket of fruit, which included watermelon, cantaloup, plum, peach and grapes, 200 grams of sashimi-grade tuna and two Sendai steaks, to be taken home by the winner. All prizes are give out during the game, and if the owner wins, the round is replayed.

Free Bird

Japan is a very low crime country. Even minor crimes do not appear to be much of a problem here, but there are obviously some areas in which certain precautions must be taken.

Star search

From Reuters:

Besides Tanabata celebrations, more than 70,000 Japanese shops, offices and tourist attractions such as Tokyo Tower will take part in a "lights off" campaign to save energy on Monday evening.

 "The G8 summit will take place on Tanabata, so we are working towards turning off the lights, and gazing at the milky way while re-affirming the importance of the environment," said Prime Minister Yasuo Fukuda in a speech last month. 


Having lived in Tokyo for several years, I cannot help but think that the effort will not result in a view of the Milky Way. There is so much light pollution here, that only on the clearest nights and after the
lights at the nearby temple have been turned off, have I seen more than two stars at any one time. And one of those could have been a planet. The G8 leaders, at their relatively remote retreat, may indeed be able to see stars in the night sky.

Tanabata is based on a Chinese legend, in which Kengyuu (the star Alter) meets Orihime (the star Vega) only once a year on this day over the Milky Way. People celebrate this day by putting up big branches of bamboo with colourful decorations at home. People also make a wish and hang a strip of paper with their wish written on it. (from nihongomemo.com)

Global Tito Update

Once again there has been a sporadic update to Global Tito. This year the idle monkey trainer was lucky enough to take the day off from idleness and spend some time carrying a three-ton shrine around the neighborhood. You can read more about it and see the shrine here.

The following week, I was also dragged from idleness to again carry a shrine, though smaller and for less time, at the Torigoe Matsuri. This particular festival is held in the evening, with candles illuminating the mikoshi as they are carried to the small shrine.

The orange lights are the shrines.

Stopping to receive the blessing of the temple priests under the crescent moon.

A foreign monkey trainer burdened with mikoshi.

Surrounding the main event, of course, are the attendant booths, selling food, booze and those with games. Games like "scoop the goldfish/turtle/other aquatic creature". Well, that is not the official name, but that better conveys the gist of it.

Scoop them up and take them home, as many as you can before your paper scooper disintegrates.

The catch of the idle monkey trainer, who, by the way, practices catch and release. After all, what is an idle monkey trainer going to do with six small green turtles and that other thing?

Different festivals have different attendant events, of course, and among the more rare is the lion dance. This apparently used to be much more common, but has lost some of its popularity and there are fewer dancers able to perform nowadays. But, if you are lucky enough to get a "bite" from the lion, it brings good luck.

Yoshida Brothers

One advantage of being an idle monkey trainer, as opposed to one regularly and gainfully employed*, is the abundance of free time which allows me to attend concerts oddly scheduled on a Friday afternoon.

Yoshida Brothers (吉田兄弟） put on just such a show on May 2, 2008 at the new ACT Theater in Tokyo's swanky Akasaka district. The small theater was opened in April along with an office tower and shopping and restaurant area. This being Japan, of course every shop and restaurant opened on precisely the same day and at precisely the same time.

Given the time the concert started - 2:00 p.m. on a normal Friday - it was perhaps not surprising that the audience would be older. By my own rough estimate (monkey trainers, by the way, are remarkably accurate at gaging percentages in large crowds and can easily recognize numbers up to five) approximately 80 per cent of the audience was above the age of 60. It was also predominately female. I counted five Westerners.

Of course, another explanation of the audience's demographics could be the relative lack of interest in the shamisen, the traditional three-stringed Japanese instrument the Yoshida Brothers play. Traditional, however, is not how one would describe their music.

Some of their songs are played only by the two brothers, seated at center stage, with their shamisen hooked into amplifiers. On other songs they were backed up by taiko drums and a traditional flute. On yet others they were backed by a full drum kit, bass guitar, violin, electric guitar and keyboards.

Over 90 minutes, they played approximately nine songs, including a two-song encore of what are arguably their two most well-known songs: Rising and Kodo. (See below.) There was also a ten-minute movie that provided a bit of humor and a chance for them to go from jeans and t-shirts to more traditional kimono (as seen in the video).

For those unfamiliar with the Yoshida Brothers:

Rising


Kodo (This song was also used in the brilliant Nintendo Wii commercials in the US.)

Global Tito Update

Global Tito has two new pages from the trip to Seoul, South Korea mentioned below. Check out more images of Seoul, as well as the start of the new Urban Wildlife series.

Seoul Tournament

The TSHA played a ball hockey tournament in Seoul, South Korea on Sunday, April 14, 2008. Only five members of the TSHA made the trip, picking up some assistance from a variety of goalies and some new-to-Seoul players generously loaned to us by the organizers.

The NHL-sized rink at Seoul's 1988 Olympic Stadium.

The TSHA accomplished our first international tournament win, ending the day with one win and three losses, and missing the second round by one point. Although disappointed to some extent at not advancing, it did mean we were able to retire earlier to good food, rice wine and foot massages.

Core TSHA members and "astronaut".

On the road

The idle monkey trainer is on the road, bound for Seoul for kimchi, soju and a ball hockey tournament. Huzzah!

Spring in Tokyo

Officially the sakura blossoms have come out six days earlier than last year. Global warming? I have no idea. But, it looks good this week.


Both photographs were taken March 23, 2008 in Akasaka, Tokyo, Japan.

Reference Materials

A book of English phrases was recently brought to my attention. There is no shortage of these books in Japan. And many of them are geared as quick references for surprisingly specific uses.

The particular book I was shown was designed to assist with English phrases in short notes, post cards, etc. Many of the phrases were standard, some more eccentric. The same was true of the situations in which the phrases were set out.

There were the standard phrases for Thank You notes, birthday cards, congratulatory cards for all manner of accomplishment. There were some phrases outlined for praising the contributions to one's own success.

The phrases that really caught my attention, however, came at the end of the book. Under the heading "Adultery". The example phrases were all written as coming from women to a lover, and included such useful lines as:

"My husband means nothing to me."
"My body hungers for yours."

Although there is widespread infidelity here, I had not realized it had reached a point where it was necessary to have such useful phrases at the ready in English.

Hello Kitty Causes Cancer

Indirectly anyway.

Happy New Year!

There are a number of traditions for ringing out the old year and ringing in the new. Among the most physically taxing (for ordinary people, university students have a mountainous marathon relay on the first) is making sticky rice cakes called mochi.

Step one (following the cooking of the rice, that is), mash the mochi rice.
Step two, pound the rice like your hammering rocks on a prison chain gain.

Happy Holidays!

Praying to the gods

These images were taken in October, so in some respects they are late going up. The first is taken of one of the most photographed and famous scenes in Osaka (at least at night and of those scenes shown to most people and in mixed company).
Remember in viewing it that Japan likes to tout its efforts at energy conservation and the battle against global warming.

The kirin is a phoenix-like creature in Japanese mythology. It is also the symbol of Kirin Beverage Company, makers of Kirin Lager. The photograph below was taken at their headquarters building next to the Ebisu Bridge (above). Someone had paid homage to this god.

Global Tito Update

I have finally gotten around to updating Global Tito with a few highlights from the Tokyo Motor Show.

Shaping up

Wacoal, long known as the top lingerie maker in Japan, has recently introduced underwear designed to slightly tighten the wearer's body to give a more fit appearance. Japanese women have long been fans of such clothing, and even embraced padded pants -- much like they have padded bras -- to give themselves more curves.

Wacoal's new line, however, is aimed at the middle-aged, cubicle dwelling man. According to the Nikkei Weekly even younger cubicle rats are joining the trend. One man in his fifties was quoted as saying, "As I grew fatter, I became more aware of my body shape." So, he did what any man would do -- he purchased form-flattering underwear.

The market has grown for such products with the awareness of "metabolic syndrome", an accumulation of fat around vital body organs (which an American friend refers to more directly as "getting fat"), which has lead to an increase in attention to body shape. This of course leads to problems such as diabetes and other lifestyle related illnesses. The natural response, therefore, is to cover the problem. According to the Nikkei, "form-fitting underwear is likely to be [a] potential growth segment, as the popularity of such underwear is driven not just by a rising interest in health, but also by a strong demand for slender suits."

It seems reasonable, after all, that gym membership takes much more time to work.

Finally!

For those who have been waiting, and doubtless there are many, OWND is finally open. What is OWND, you may be asking. OWND is Oxygen, Water, Nutrition and Dogs, which is of course a place to stick your small- or medium-sized dog into an oxygen chamber for a few minutes. They also have human-sized ones you can enjoy while waiting for Fido to rejuvenate. And, it is only JPY2000 ($17.53) for 30 minutes. And there is no need to fear your dog will be crushed by the pressure normally pumped in for humans, because the flow of oxygen has been brought down by 0.1 point from the people setting. The best part, is that these things look like little clear plastic torpedo tubes.

Source: Nikkei Weekly, October 22, 2007

Catering to the geeks

The Akihabara district of Tokyo has long been a geek stronghold. The main strip is lined with electronics stores of various description. There are numerous shops catering to anime and manga enthusiasts. The back alleyways and side streets are filled with enough porn to satisfy most, much of it anime. Maid Cafes, in which young women, clad in "French Maid" outfits giggle and serve tea. An industry in its own right has been spawned by these cafes and now includes other manner of stores, including glasses stores, souvenir stores, and reflexology shops. All of them cater to the otaku, Japanese for "geek".

According to a Japan Times article, however, all this catering to otaku is dangerous. In short, the cartoonish maids and making their socially inept "masters" ever more socially inept by reducing the geeks' need to interact with normal society.

Apparently, it would have been so much better if it had stopped at the porn. Perhaps the growth of maid-themed shops will keep them from breeding.

Random Thought

I was walking around an area not far from my neighborhood when this thought struck me: Does it seem feasible to anyone else that any fresh water shortages Japan may suffer could be caused by the clusters of soap lands scattered throughout major metropolitan areas?

For those of you unfamiliar with soap land, you can read wikipedia's entry here. *

*Please note that this does not constitute an endorsement of wikipedia, but rather a laziness on the part or the idle monkey trainer. And the first few sentences seemed fairly accurate.*

* Or, so I have heard from a friend of a friend.

Location, location, location.

Only in Japan would the above pictures be displaying the perfect place for a late summer barbecue. This place had it all:

• Directly under a commuter rail bridge;
• Loose rock of various size and shape;
• An area scrubbed clean by the localized flooding of a recent typhoon;
• Mud, left by the aforementioned typhoon;
• Twelve-foot high graffiti.

It's all about location.

Learned something new.

You learn something new everyday, or so the saying goes. Here is what the idle monkey trainer learned over the last few days:

• 10% of world GDP is related to the aviation industry
• 94.3% of Japanese females in their 20's own a Louis Vuitton item
• It is possible to cleanly shave 99.99% of one's face and still leave intact a clump of 6-inch long hair growing from a solitary mole on the face. (This really is anecdotal and based on the Thai guy and Chinese guy I met over the weekend. At first I thought it was simply neglect or obliviousness to the hair, but realized that the shampooing and styling of one such patch of mole hair constituted a conscious effort at cultivation and required, I would assume, great patience.)
• The toilets in the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo are the nicest public restrooms on the planet. Each stall features floor to nearly ceiling walls and door (to prevent unsolicited advances by rogue Senators, and others), a "washlet" (heated seat with shower function) and soothing classical music kept at a reasonable volume. The soap dispensers and faucets are all automatic, so one does not have to touch anything.
  

Part time work?

Being an idle monkey trainer, it is at times necessary to supplement my income with part time work. Would you care for some Japanese sweets?

"Why don't snails shells get dirty?"

A question that has apparently been of some debate in certain circles. The issue was perhaps put to rest for a group of about fifty attendees at a seminar of that title on Wednesday in Chiba (next to Tokyo). I am a bit disappointed I missed it, and am, therefore, still in the dark on this pressing issue.

The seminar was presented as part of an analytical instruments show, and was geared toward children with the hope of getting kids interested in analytical instruments, or science, or snails. Only time will tell how effective the effort is. The organizers plan to continue these children-oriented seminars in coming years, and I, for one, look forward to more thrilling topics.

Might I suggest a topic for next year: Why are moths' wings dusty?

Shoki Barai

"Drinking away the summer heat" was how this succinct Japanese phrase for getting drunk on a summer evening was translated for me. I can find no equivalent word or simple phrase in English to express that idea. I do have a couple of friends, however, who would no doubt suggest "Friday" has the same connotation.

Along with hanami (viewing the blooming cherry trees) and hanabi (fireworks, which in Japan means going to a park, drinking for several hours to hold your place among the tens of thousands of others doing the same thing), shoki barai seems to me simply another excuse to do what they already want to do: drink.

Now I just need to find a term that is applicable to winter drinking. There is doubtless one.

Fears: Correction

It would appear that I was misinformed. But, fortunately, one benefit of being an idle monkey trainer is having a dedicated research staff.*


I've checked the "Earthquake, Lightning and Father" stuff, as I thought there is one more, "Earthquake, Lightning, "Fire" and Father". And I was right, there are 4 top things to fear. And there are not just for children, adults also fear those.

And I found an interesting story about "Father" - "Oyaji" in Japanese. "Oyaji" used to be "Ooyamaji" which is an old word that means "Typhoon". "Oyaji" and "Ooyamaji" sound very similar, so someone (in old era) started to play around with the word and changed to "Oyaji" which means father, but historically father is not on the 4 top things to fear. So, actually the 4 top things to fear are "Earthquake, Lightning, Fire and Typhoon" which are all weather disasters which could happen in Japan.

Let me just add, that those things do often occur Japan.

*Not actually true, idle monkey trainers do not have any benefits.

Website Updated

Finally there is new material to be found at Global Tito. Take a look at diving in Hawaii and more Dying Sealife.

Japanese Fears

Working in Japan has necessitated learning the language (Japanese monkeys do not speak English). The other day, following the unsettled weather and seismic events of the past couple weeks, my teacher told me about the top fears of children in Japan, and how they have changed.

Previously, the top three were:
1. Earthquakes (on average, Japan has one every 5 minutes)
2. Lightning (the god is pictured)
3. Fathers (the phrase "lightning strikes" was often used to mean "father yelling")

Now, however, the top fears are:
1. Earthquakes
2. Lightning

Fathers, according to my teacher, "have gotten weak."

Back from abroad

The Idle Monkey Trainer is now back in Japan after three mostly idle weeks in the U.S. Unfortunately, three weeks there means a busy return to life here. Thus the lack of recent updates. There will be more soon.

Denver's Union Station

Sunset as seen from the hotel in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii

Shamless self-promotion

If you, like me, have idle time on your hands, have a look at the photos on www.tokyodot.tv.

Thank you for your support.

Quick Random Thought

In general I do not find much of interest on Japanese television. After all, there is only some many times you can watch the same eight "celebrities" (defined in Japan as people who are famous for being famous) "debate" (in the lightest sense of the word) topics.

There are two areas in which, I must admit, Japanese television clearly triumphs: game shows and fishing shows. Because this is a random thought, borne of an idle Saturday afternoon and a couple of drinks, I will deal only with the second.

In fishing shows the Japanese television producers have figured out the formula to perfection, and it is exceedingly simple: instead of heavy-set men they have cast young, attractive females to cast away for various fish. Well done.

The Crow

Over the weekend Tokyo experienced the first taste of summer. In celebration hundreds, if not thousands, of people streamed into Tokyo's Ueno park to enjoy the sunshine and warm temperatures. Among them, a companion and I sat with our purchased bag of chicken when a large crow swept down and eyed one of the bags sitting on the low bench with us. With little hesitation, it hopped once toward the bag, snatching it in its black beak and leaped into a low flight to a spot about 30 meters away. There it tore open the paper bag, strewing pieces of fried chicken around, before taking the largest in its beak and flying off. The whole affair took such little time that the only thing to do was say, "Hey! That crow stole our chicken!"

I think this particular crow was contemplating taking the cat as his next meal.

Tokyo's crows have a deserved reputation for aggressiveness, noise, general filthiness. So bad did the problem get that in the previous election cycle (not the most recent), Governor Ishihara made a reduction of the birds part of a campaign promise. His program to curb the birds, however, failed and actually resulted in a reported increase of the pests. For another example of the birds' ill behavior, go here.

The aftermath

As previously noted, the sanja matsuri, with its attendant hordes came to Tokyo's sensoji temple complex and surrounding neighborhoods. Saturday's early rains seemed to keep things from starting too quickly, but Sunday's postcard clear day invited more people out.

On hand into the evening were literally at least eight bus-loads of Tokyo Metropolitan Police Department's finest crowd control cops. As the sun set, the mikoshi (portable shrines) continued to wind their way through the streets, accompanied by spectators and police.


Clean up takes place quickly around the temple grounds. The booths of food and games come down mostly Sunday night, the crowd control barriers get pulled to the back of the temple, and the mountain of garbage that is generated over the two day's of celebration is loaded for the landfills and incinerators

I think they are going to need a bigger truck.

Thailand in Japan

May 12th and 13th, hordes of Tokyo denizens assembled in Yoyogi park to get their fill of Thai food, Thai pop music and Thai beer. Not necessarily in that order.


This weekend, the sanja matsuri, one of the three largest festivals in Japan takes place in Tokyo's Asakusa district. As this is close the current world headquarters of the Idle Monkey Trainer, I will be leaving the area this weekend. Think of the crowd above tripled in size, and half of them carrying small shrines, like these guys below two years ago.

Sports in the red light district

Sunday afternoons a group of mostly Canadians, a couple of Americans, and the occasional token Aussie or Brit get together to play street hockey in the red light district of Kabukicho in Tokyo. There is a park that we use, conveniently located in front of the local hospital and otherwise surrounded by host clubs, hostess clubs, love hotels, and other associated and unaffiliated businesses.

Given the area, it was only a matter of time, it was only a matter time before this happened:


For information on the hockey group (not the ladies pictured above), visit the Tokyo Street Hockey Association.

Obligatory Sakura Photos

Spring in Japan is the time of the sakura (cherry blossoms) and so, here are a couple of shots from the Sumida River park. Global Tito has also been updated with photos of the ubiquitous trees.














Nothing says Japanese tradition like sitting under the sakura, eating a donner kebab.

Economic indicators

Despite the decade or so of economic malaise that followed the bursting of Japan's real estate bubble in the early 1990's, Japan has retained its place as the world's number two economic power. Over the past few years Japan has been going through a prolonged period of recovery. And the signs that it will continue remain prevalent.

Much focus is given to the Japan Business Federation's (Nippon Keidanren) tankan survey of business sentiment. Business publications hang on every word issued by the Bank of Japan governor. The consumer price index, the value of the yen, and consumer behavior and myriad other indicators are also scrutinized at length in an attempt to predict if this expansion will continue. One area of anecdotal evidence of Japan's economic health, however, seems to be left unnoticed.

Trade shows in Japan offer a view of the economy's state that is rarely reflected upon. There are two elements to the Trade Show Indicator of Economic Health (tm). The first is simply the number of trade shows and exhibitions held and their size. In the last couple of years, trade shows have seen an increased interest from companies looking for opportunities to exhibit their products and services. New trade shows have also been springing up to focus on up and coming industries. The types of new trade shows should also be included here, for example the holding of Japan's first Gourmet Food Show this year.

The second part of the Trade Show Indicator of Economic Health (tm) is the number and quality of the "Campaign Girls". For those unfamiliar with trade shows in Japan, these are the young women typically dressed in short skirts or the like employed by companies to attract visitors into their booths, encourage visitors to fill out their surveys in exchange for cheap give-aways, and be photographed prominently displaying the companies' logos. (Sometimes more effectively than at other times - see below.)

A couple of years ago only the biggest, most free-spending of the Japanese companies had campaign girls prancing in front of their booths; and then only at the biggest exhibitions. This year the number of bubbly women in short, logo-ed apparel has increased.

As an aside, you can also tell the relative health of a company by the quantity and quality of the campaign girl(s) employed at any given booth within the exhibition.

According to the Trade Show Indicator of Economic Health (tm), it should be a good year for the Japanese economy. And for the hundreds of guys who only attend trade shows to photograph campaign girls.

And the winner is...

Since only one person actually left a guess (Thank you!), the gin goes to Allie. Congratulations, despite being totally off the mark with your answer.

That bit of promotion (see photo of model on a motorcycle with a side car) was actually for a digital camera.

What's being promoted here?

As part of my job here, I spend a good deal of time at trade shows and exhibitions. The photo was taken at a recent trade show. (Not a great photo, I know, but I did not feel like waiting from the throngs of Japanese guys with professional grade cameras to move on -- they don't.)

Can you identify what is being promoted?

Leave your answers in the comments section. The winner, should ever we meet, will receive a gin & tonic. The correct answer will be posted next week. Good luck.

The Neighbors

When I first moved to Japan several years ago, an apartment was arranged for me in Kawasaki City. My new employer, which had hired me without so much as a telephone interview, was kind enough to locate and pay some of the more ridiculous fees on the apartment prior to my arrival.

After landing and getting in touch with the company, I was given instructions on where and how to meet a representative to take me to the apartment. As we walked from the station, he pointed out some of the neighborhood’s highlights – numerous restaurants, department stores, and just down the block from my new residence, a building full of yakuza.

“Don’t worry about them,” I was told. “They do not mess with people in their neighborhood. You don’t bother them, they will not bother you.”

Fair enough, I thought.

In the 15 months that I lived there, I only had two instances of direct interaction with my neighbors. The first occurred as a friend, who also lived in my building, and I were walking passed the yakuza’s place. An eager young gangster sidled up next to us and stated with great pride and careful enunciation, “I...am...Japanese...gangster!”

My friend replied casually, “yes, we know.” At that the young man dropped away and walked back to the small group of associated that always stood outside the building. They greeted his return with a verbal haranguing clearly audible as we proceeded toward the station. Although my understanding of Japanese was limited, it was clear that the young man had breached some article of protocol.

Over the next several months, that young gangster would scurry quickly inside at the sight of my or my friend’s approach.

Across the street and just around the corner from the yakuza’s place was a small coin-operated laundry which I used because of it was nearly always empty of patrons and it was close to my place. The shop held only washers and three driers. Unusually for this place, all of the machines were engaged, so I was shuttling back and forth between my apartment and the laundry. This was quite common and I had no experience with or fear of anyone taking my clothes. I returned to the laundry to find one of the other patrons emptying his clothes from a drier. I thought my timing was quite good since I was on my last load and needed the drier. He finished and I began moving my clothes to the now empty drier. Just as I finished and slotted the coins to start the drier one of the yakuza came into the shop.

He watched as I started the machine, then looked up to the top of the machine. I had not noticed, but on top of the machine was a blanket resting comfortably atop the half inch of dust and lint. I tried to explain to the best of my limited Japanese ability and, seeing that fail, through a series of grunts and pantomime that I was not responsible for the current location of the blanket. Thinking I had conveyed the my meaning adequately, I returned to my apartment.

At the time I thought my laundry should have been dry, I returned to the shop. The machine in which I had left my clothes was empty. They were not on top of the washers, as would sometimes happen on particularly busy days in the laundries around the neighborhood. I looked through in the other driers, but could not located my clothes. Then I glanced into the trash can at the rear of the shop. There were my clothes, still wet. I surmised that this was the result of the phone call the young yakuza was hastily making when I left the shop earlier.

Morning commuter 3.16.07

On the campaign trail

In a couple of short weeks, Japan will hold local elections at the city level. Fortunately for the residents of this country, the campaign season is mercifully limited to a few short weeks for each election cycle. That is not a lot of time to prepare the electorate for the day. Thus, the politicians have been on the campaign circuit from morning to night "debating" the issues. To the left is the debating platform of choice for local elections. When you get to the national level, you get a bus with bigger and more speakers.

Politicians or their designated mouth-pieces spend the day cruising the neighborhoods of their district, screaming "good morning", "good afternoon", "good evening", "elect (insert name of candidate here) and "thank you" through their sound systems at the unsuspecting citizenry.

Any resident within a six block radius is well aware of this message. Those at 100 meters endure a ringing in the ears for a few minutes. Any closer and you would probably just go deaf.

Local elections are over in a couple of weeks, at which point the din of Tokyo returns to normal until the campaign season for the upper chamber of parliament kicks off in June. They get the buses -- there's something to look forward to.

Shameless promotion in my own self-interest

This article is a nicely done piece about the group I attempt to play hockey with whenever possible.
http://www.fitnessjp.com/025_58_we+don%60t+need+no+stinking+skates%21

(The views expressed in the article are not necessarily those of the Idle Monkey Trainer, including the quotes.)

Also, Global Tito has been updated.

Signs of Spring

The indications that winter (entirely snow-less in Tokyo for the first time since modern records began in the Edo Period) is soon to be behind us are emerging. Distinctive to Japan, or at least Tokyo, the approach of spring is not heralded by the arrival of the first robins, as it is in North America. Rather, it is the sprouting of lights on the cherry trees that mark the nearing change.
The other sure-fire indication that spring is on the horizon, is that fake sakura line Nakamise in Asakusa, Tokyo.

Resurrection

Thoughts of an Idle Monkey Trainer has gone without an update for a long time. At the suggestion of a (geographically) distant friend, it has been resurrected as a companion to Global Tito, which is updated approximately monthly. The thoughts of idle monkey trainers, however, occur more frequently, and thus require more frequent updates. Those thoughts will be found here.

Mourning light

The body was found an hour ago. It had been hastily covered by a few boughs broken off nearby firs. In the early morning light the night’s dew shimmered with each passing step. There were now about a dozen onlookers walking around the body in measured steps. Each kept his eyes fixed on the motionless mound, seemingly hoping to discern something, anything, about it. None so much as made a single sound, which lent the scene an oppressive, nearly ritualistic, air. As the hours passed, more onlookers arrived and joined the circular procession. The newly arrived took on the inquisitive look of the rest and soon blended easily into the group. All were dressed in long dark robes with hoods pulled over their heads. They formed a nearly solid wall around the body, leaving only the tiniest glimpse between them as they circled. When more came, the circle expanded outward, but was unceasing in its counter-clockwise rotation.

Left alone with the body, one may have crouched beside it to examine it more closely, to smell the last traces of perfume. Perhaps one would be so bold as to brush back the hair that fell into the face. But in the group, none dared get any closer than another. The sun rose higher and cast a harsher light upon the forest floor and dried the dew from grass, bough and body. The march kept on. Through the hot afternoon the pace slowed only slightly and a few heads hung lower, but never did any of their eyes move from the lifeless form in their midst.

As the sun began to drift behind the distant mountains and the few clouds above began to turn pink, a low murmur started low from the pack. From my perch on a low rise a few hundred yards off, it sounded at first like the distant growl of an avalanche. As darkness crept into the woods, the volume rose. The rhythm of a chant reached my ears, but the words remained elusive. The pace of the mourners – as I had come to regard them – neither increased nor decreased. Their voices matched their steps. With the cooler temperature of the night approaching those that had hung their heads in the heat seemed to regain their strength and now walked erect.

The first stars appeared above and the monotone rhythm of the chant was punctuated by guttural shouts that conveyed much feeling. Each shout was accompanied by the singular motion of the right arm thrown quickly into the air and instantly recalled. As the sky darkened the pace quickened, the rhythm of the chant sped up to match it and the interval between the shouts shortened. When the moon could first be glimpsed above the treetops, shrill yelps came from the previously unnoticed women who had joined the group. The chant continued with the yelps of the women and the shouts of the men alternating and reverberating through the low valley.

For several minutes more there was no change. When the moon came fully over the horizon, however, the women broke the ranks from the four points of the compass and jerked the boughs from the body. They rejoined the march, tossing the boughs high above them and into the shadows of the surrounding forest. Over the chant of the procession the crash of the boughs could barely be discerned. Again the pace quickened and the volume rose.

At last the moon reached its zenith and bathed the mourners in a dull glow. Four of the more stout men stepped to the inside of the circle but continued to keep pace. The four circled closer and closer to the body until they nearly trod upon it. They stopped suddenly and dropped to a knee, each taking hold of a limb. With fluid motion they rose and lifted the body toward the heavens. The outer circle let go a cry – a mix of anguish, jealousy, pain, and fear – then resumed their original chant, the punctuating shouts and yelps now absent. In the center the four men, held the body high. They faced the south; the two under the feet standing side by side so that the ankles touched, the two with the arms so that they extended out like wings. The head, perhaps braced under the neck, did not fall or roll. Long curls of dark brown hair cascaded down and swayed slightly. Loose white fabric from the body’s dressings hung like sails from the arms and legs. Slowly the men turned the body, clockwise, never allowing the hips of the body to stray from above their original position on the ground. By nearly imperceptible increments they turned the body faster until the rotations of the two circles were identical.

From the west clouds rolled in above the trees, but split curiously above the mourners. The clouds, dark and menacing, circled the moon in the manner of the outer circle flowing around the body. The moon continued its journey across the sky, becoming masked by the cloud. The scene darkened, but the chants continued. In the diminished light it was difficult to see, but the revolutions of the mourners did not slow. When the moon was fully behind the clouds a flash of light came from the clouds. It came not in discernible bolts, but rather in a flood from every direction. So powerful was it that the entire forest glowed and lost all shape, leaving only a blinding white. Just as suddenly darkness plunged back in, as if filling a vacuum. The clouds parted without so much as a breath of wind. The mourners stood, with arms and faces raised to the heavens, their eyes closed and lips sealed tight; the body conspicuously absent. Slowly, and in synchronized fashion, the mourners lowered their arms and faces to the center of the circle, turned and parted ways, each walking in a straight line, no two walking together.

This is the Army...

Given my geographic location, one of my primary sources of current information has become the Armed Forces Network (AFN) on radio broadcast from a somewhat nearby air force base. This has certain advantages over local radio. Significantly, it is in English and carries hourly news updates from AP and CNN. When sports finals roll around, they broadcast the games live.

Because of rules governing AFN broadcasts, there are no commercials. This is also good. In their stead they broadcast a type of public service announcement. It should go without saying that these announcements are intended for the military community. What they offer to those not in the military, however, is a glimpse into what happens behind the secure gates of the area facilities.

Now, if these broadcasts were the only insight into the life of the military, there are a few impressions one would get. First, military personnel that get into radio are not nearly as funny as Robin Williams made them seem in Good Morning Vietnam. In fact, they are not funny at all. Ever.

Second, they have problems – lots of problems. Here are the most serious problems military personnel have, as determined by the frequency of announcements encouraging them not to engage in the activities:
 Drunk driving
 Sexual harassment
 Shop lifting
 Allowing breaches in base security
 Driving into jet fuel trucks
 Driving motorcycles in an unsafe manner
 Suicide
 Allowing themselves to get out of shape

The station twice a month also broadcasts call-in shows with commanders, or other officers, from the various bases in the area. On these shows they encourage people from the bases or other areas under their command to raise various issues that are affecting them. It seems that most of their problems involve parking, or the lack of it.

Otherwise, it would seem, at least, all is well.

Rock for Regime Change

“Rock for Regime Change”

Saturday, May 28, Tokyo Japan – With an eclectic mix of musicians performing jazz with tap, hard rap-rock, DJs, and jam bands, the Democrats Abroad (Japan) staged their “Rock for Regime Change” to register overseas voters.

Co-sponsors for the event included a local restaurant and Red Hook Beer, both of whom donated part of their sales that night to the Democrats Abroad. Despite the event name and the organization by the Democrats, the political aspects of the evening were somewhat muted. Other than a couple of brief speeches, the only thing that really gave it away as a political event were the small John Kerry for president signs in the lobby and the visuals projected on the walls next to the stage. The most prominent of the images was a collage of the current Bush administration hawks, plus George H.W. Bush, superimposed over images from Iraq or Afghanistan. The elder Bush actually seemed more prominent since his image managed to stay on the wall longer as the picture zoomed out.

The night opened with a brief speech by someone who was somehow involved with the organization of the event making a 15-second political note and introducing the first band, a local band by the name of Ebel (or something like that). The smallish female lead singer managed to hold her own over the high-volume guitar and base work. They were followed by Heya no Mori (Peace Forest), a combination of three tap-dancers, a weak bass player, a jazz pianist and a scat singer with little soul.

Following the jazz and tap came another short political appeal, something which had been thankfully absent so far. This one proved to be a stirring plea for action. The emcee held a beer high and announced that the Red Hook being sold would benefit the Democrats Abroad and the quest to remove George H.W. Bush from office, and as such, everyone should do his or her part by drinking much. It was obvious the emcee was doing his part.

The third band of the night proved the best. Going by the name Sonica, it was a collection of foreign and Japanese musicians, including what are perhaps Japan’s best drummer and bass player. The band was rounded off with two other guitarists, a saxophone and an angry sounding “singer,” in the style of Rage Against the Machine. They performed well, with energy and tight musicianship, despite this being their first performance.

Fourth up on the stage was perhaps the group having the most fun. The lead, not really a singer as such, but definitely in the lead, made numerous reference to and chants for Ralph Nader, as well as goading the audience to move closer to the stage. The stage itself was crowded for their set, borrowing the bassist from earlier, two guitars, four horns, a rapper, a fair drummer and a couple of guys who seemed only to scream into the microphones a couple of times per tune.

The true highlight of the evening, however, was located at the back left of the venue. Baird Beer, a microbrewery located in Shizuoka prefecture, about two hours by express train from Tokyo, had a variety of what must be Japan’s best beer. As one gentleman commented over a pint of Angry Boy Brown Ale, “This is the best beer I’ve had in about five years. It is so hard to find a good beer in this country.” Interestingly, Mr. Baird learned his craft at Red Hook, and after a sipped announced solemnly, “Red Hook doesn’t travel well.”

What the expectations of the organizers were, or if they met them, are hard to tell. But, it was obvious that those in attendance enjoyed themselves immensely.

Sakura, sakura...

Spring in Tokyo, as most places, is a time of renewal. The gray skies begin to give way to a softer, more inviting blue. Trees that once offered only charcoal skeletons now nearly glow with blossoms. The hemlines of skirts climb in increments best measured in feet. Offices of the bigger, more traditional firms nearly bubble over with newly graduated recruits. And the event known as hanami greets them all.

A celebration of spring, hanami (literally flower viewing) is the official harbinger of spring. The government launches an official website to track and forecast the blooming of the cherry trees. Schedules are made and changed according to variations in the weather forecast.

On the days when the weather is warm and the trees are in their prime (which usually lasts about an hour), space in a park is at a premium. During the week the spaces are rigorously defended, often by a recent graduate embarking on his exciting career in business. Whether they are also responsible for lining up Peach Girls (escorts specifically engaged to provide company for hanami parties) may depend on the company’s culture. Each company or hanami party may even be so bold as to mark off their territory days in advance. The ingenious may pay a few of the homeless in booze and food to reserve a spot. Availability is on a first come, first served basis.

To properly enjoy the season, one must be prepared, and observe the traditions of hanami:

A blue tarp – preferably large enough to shelter a small nomadic tribe, spread on the ground for claiming territory and later seating; remember to remove your shoes before stepping onto it

Cardboard boxes – for use as tables for the buffet

Food – any assortment of snacks – dried fish and squid, seaweed, chicken skewers, fried noodles, octopus balls, meat on a stick, peanuts, etc. – in large quantities, lest you have to later order pizza from the delivery guys wandering the park

Alcohol – more important than food, one must be prepared to drink until the flowers which you are ostensibly viewing no longer come into focus. Beer and rice wine are the staples, but don’t be afraid to bring the entire bar with you – you will not be looked up with scorn, but rather with envy

Remember also to carry a camera (easily done in Japan, where every phone has a camera and everyone and their dog has a phone), for if you have done the above, you will need some evidence of having seen a flower.

Those who are ill prepared are forced to pay inflated prices for snacks and beer from the myriad of vendors set up around each park, and scrounge newspaper and the dismantled buffet boxes to use as seats.

But as quickly as the hanami season begins, it ends, and one is left to wait for hanabi (fireworks) to start before indulging so conspicuously in the park again.

Recommended reading

Nothing new from me, but others are keeping busy. Check out "the hard drinker" by Court Merrigan.

Olympic glory

I can now say that I've boarded down an Olympic run. Two actually. Over the weekend the company took a trip to Shiga Kogen, Nagano Prefecture, which was the site of some of the '98 Winter Olympic competition. After struggling through a 30km (18.6 mile) traffic jam leaving Tokyo, we arrived just before 1:00 p.m. Skipping lunch, we strapped on the boards and headed up the gondola. Snow was falling lightly, and occasional patches of sun poked through. The snow could have been better, but was not horrible. The half-inch of new stuff was not bad, but the base was fairly solid and icy. (One co-worker sustained a broken wrist in a bad fall on a steep run.) After the skiing came a huge meal, and the onsen (hot springs). The bath, referred to as a rotenburo, was situated outside at the back of one of the hotels, at the base of a forest slope. Ringing the bath area was a moat of snowmelt. Very cold snowmelt. The night was capped by a mediocre display of fireworks launched from the top of the mountain, but still managed to draw the applause of the guests assembled in the large-windowed restaurant to watch. The next day was a beautiful spring day, with clear skies and a view from the top of the Southern Japanese Alps. As the day warmed (and the slopes crowded) the snow softened and became slushy, but remained hard and icy in spots. The two Olympic runs, by the way, had been for the Giant Slalom and Super Giant Slalom and are well marked.

Four Days of Board-ome on the North Island

Days 3 & 4

The last two days were pretty much the same. Dinner the final evening was a huge feast - a buffet covered in snow crab, grilled king crab, mountains of raw shrimp, grilled squid, a bucket of salmon roe and a variety of other things. The snow remained good, and it was snowing hard as the bus pulled out for the airport.

Four Days of Board-ome on the North Island

Day 2

From deep slumber to painful aches, the day began much as the previous had ended – light, fluffy snow drifting down around the hotel. On the ground lay a new, if not especially deep, layer of powder. Breakfast in the traditional Japanese style – rice, a small cut of salmon, natto (fermented soybeans) and crisp nori (dry seaweed).

At the summit of the smaller of the two peaks, just above 1000 meters, the sun was shining and the wind was whipping. Near and in the trees, the snow remained soft and light for the first few runs, turning heavier as the day went on and the temperature rose. A fine spring day ensued.

From mid-afternoon the onsen (hot springs) beckoned, cutting the day short in avoidance of the icy conditions that would begin to form. The water steamed in a large room with baths of different description. The largest in one corner near a window looking out to a forested hill was shallow and mostly mild. A small bath waited at 20C (68F) to greet those emerging from the sauna. Nearby, a shallow bath held reclining bathers as air pulsed and massaged from below.

The most enjoyable of the baths, however, was found out a sliding glass door. A small, round bath deeper than those inside sat in the corner below a roof. It looked out, unobstructed, over a wooded hill. Had it been snowing at the time, it would have been picture-postcard perfect.

The dinner that followed was not the grand feast of the first night. Owing to financial considerations, an izakaya (a Japanese style bar) was found to be quite suitable. The fare varied, but mostly consisted of rice topped with sashimi and, being Hokkaido, salmon roe.

With muscles relaxed from the baths, and stomachs full, sleep came swiftly.

Four Days of Board-ome on the North Island

Day One:

The alarm started its usual noises at 5:00 a.m., far earlier than most rational people would have preferred. The city was still dark and still, only a few dedicated workers making their way toward the city center. The train to the airport showed only a little more liveliness.

The terminal building at Haneda International was buzzing with activity, travelers in suites carried black briefcases and overnight bags, others in jeans and ski jackets sat next to their boards and skis, sipping coffee and looking both tired and excited. The plane, a Boeing 747-300 was full for the hour-and-a-half flight to New Chitose Airport.

Outside the warm confines of Chitose’s airport, the sun reflected brightly off the snow. The bus wound its way out of the airport and onto the highway, headed toward the mountains to the south and west. Rising up into the foothills, the sun was masked in cloud and a thick snow was falling. It would continue to fall in waves for the next few days.

By one o’clock the gondola reached the summit of the Kiroro resort, 1,200 meters (3937 feet). Visibility at the summit was no more than 20 feet, the snow and wind combining at times in complete whiteout. The temperature was –15C (5F). The snow was thick, light and dry.

With no crowds on the slopes, the conditions did not deteriorate, and being Japan, not many are inclined to be the first into the trees or even onto the edges of the runs. Throughout the day and until the lights came on there was fresh snow to be explored. The runs were peaceful by Japanese resort standards – no J-pop, gansta rap, or other music pumping constantly from the lift speakers, only the droning repetition of announcements for the ski and snowboard school.

Dinner was taken in the ski village surrounding Hotel Piano (Kiroro is owned by Yamaha music, thus the hotels are named for instruments). This hotel serves as the main resort area, and is five minutes by shuttle bus from the mountain base. The hotel itself houses two restaurants – one Italian, one offering the foods of Hokkaido. Surrounding the hotel are other restaurants of various description – Chinese, sushi, izakaya, etc. This first night’s meal was had in a restaurant adorned almost exclusively in Beatles paraphernalia, with the occasional Elvis poster thrown in for variety. The food, however, was distinctly Hokkaido – tender strips of barbequed lamb, accompanied by bowls of rice topped with salmon roe.

Sleep that night came quickly and easily.